As usual, it takes me quite a while to find time to write on this Panama Surf Blog. Now, its time to put a new place, a "Panama Surf Island" on the site. It will soon be my secret future home and one of the best places to surf in this planet. If you are hardcore enough I can say, considerably heavy, crystal clear water, white sand beach, heave barrels, lots of fish, ecology and wild life! I think it could be Hawaii 30 years ago, that's why I don't want to burn it... It will happen little by little but the group of property owners in this area (including me) are all about conservation and educating people on it... as one of the owners... I can say... "look at google earth and check it out for your self, the world is dry, there is barely any green to be seen on this google earth tool".
The Panama Surf Island is located at 1 hour charter flight and near the continental drop off. You can see from primary forests based on huge trees that are rare to see, black panthers, monkeys, huge snakes, sharks, manta rays and more! everything mentioned here is not small, its actually huge in size and old in age.
I keep going every weekend! this trip I was with a bunch of fun mostly non surfer people, Panamanian rock star friends of mine and a pro skater friend of mine (Joe Pepper or Mr. Hams) from NY! so basically if you are not famous dont even try to find me! (JUST A JOKE).
The Feeling:
I consider to know what is a "steep drop" growing on the Atlantic coast of Panama (18 years), this drop is steep! trust me, you have this little current that pushes you towards back door of the peak. The back wash tends to make this current stronger as the tide goes up and gets higher on the volcanic rock formation. Its actually been the biggest, widest barrels I have ever experienced through Central American Surf. The good part is that this sweet secret place has no sections, once you drop, you bottom, you hold tight and you will be riding a fairly long barrel in perfect private panama surf at a fast pace. The last section is the driest spot where the barrel really sucks in so hold tight to those last 16 inches of rail / exit rocker... puch the inner rail all the way so your rail doesn't suck in and die! If you have enough adrenaline left you can always make a huge round house or make a last section aerial! today my back is broken but if I had it I would still go for it, umm sad eh??? not really, life is long, always new things come out! who ever reads this, drink water, stretch and don't stress too much in order to keep you back strait. Photography is making me happy so its all good!
PS: if you ever make it please take your trash with you (cans, glass, etc) if it burns, put it on the metal tank I have on the farm, this is totally virgin and takes a little bit of effort but worth to preserve!
Here are a few shots of my future secret home location;
Photography surf, Panama Surf, surfing in Panama, Surf Photographers, surf photography
1 comment:
What sweet photos! Did you take the in-water shots yourself? If so, they are supurb.
Looks like an awesome place
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